Antique Pocket Watch

Clocks & Watches — By admin on June 8, 2010 at 12:00 pm

The antique pocket watch we know today was developed during the 16th century. They were the most popular type of watch that got used until World War I when wrist watches replaced these. The development of the mainspring in1500 led to the invention of the first watches. In effect miniaturized portable clocks, they were usually worn around the neck on a chain or cord, or from a belt, rather than being carried in a pocket.

Before the 1670s, when the introduction of the balance hairspring revolutionized timekeeping, watches were erratic performers. Being expensive, they were often highly decorative. Cases were sometimes fashioned from faceted and hollowed-out hardstones such as rock crystal. Gold, silver or gilt-metal cases were profusely engraved, and from c. 1630 the technique of polychrome enamelling was developed to great perfection, first in Blois, France, and later in Geneva.

Form watches, watches made in the shape of another object, were popular in the early 1600s; they often took the guise of skulls. The invention of the balance spring allowed more accurate timekeeping, and watches began to feature minute hands. From the 1680s, the numerals (which by then included the minute divisions) took up a larger space on the dial. By 1710, the French were using enamel hour plaques, and from c.1725 were making complete enamel dials; by the middle of the century English watchmakers had followed suit.

By the close of the 17th century, all the basic problems that had stood in the way of a sufficiently accurate watch had been solved. There remained, however, the need to perfect a timepiece that would enable ships to fix their longitude. The search for the marine chronometer, with its counterpart the pocket chronometer, kept research going on timepieces.

The lever escapement, a spin-off from this quest for precision, was invented in the 1760s by Thomas Mudge. Unfortunately, Mudge did not fully appreciate its potential, and it was only in the 1830s that the lever escapement came into general use. But within 20 years it had replaced all other watch escapements, and it continued to be used in wristwatches until the advent of quartz movements in the 1970s.

Although in the 1800s and 1900s most pocket watches were circular, their decoration was diverse. Metal cases might be plain, engraved or embossed. Enamel work was also popular, but because it was expensive, a cheap substitute, under-painted animal horn, was sometimes used, often depicting rustic scenes.

Early outer cases were covered with leather held in place by pins; later, in the 1700s, a green shagreen covering became common. Many eighteenth-century gold cases were set with gemstones, while those made around 1800 frequently had enamel backs within a border of half-pearls. Porcelain cases were also occasionally made. The Art Deco period saw the final glory of the pocket watch, with many exquisite pieces being made for evening wear.

Types of watch cases

Pair-case
The use of the more accurate balance spring demanded a case that closed tightly to keep out dust. In response, the pair-case was developed: an inner case housed the watch movement and an outer case protected againstwear and tear. As a result, decoration moved from the inner to the outer case. The English pair-cased watch with verge escapement became the envy of Europe in the 1700s and early 1800s, and some continental makers faked London signatures on their watches; these are known as “Dutch forgeries”, since most came from Holland.

Hunter-case
To protect watch faces from breakage, hinged solid metal covers were sometimes fitted over the dial. These were known as hunter-cased watches because they were first developed for use in the hunting field.

Half-hunter case
A refinement of the hunter-case, in which the cover had a small round hole in the centre revealing a miniature chapter ring and allowing the time to be read without exposing the entire dial.

Polychrome enamel
The technique of painting on a white enamel ground was perfected by Jean Toutin of Blois c.1630. His family specialized in exquisite landscape, floral and religious scenes and trained a school of enamellers whose influence spanned Europe. They passed on their expertise to the famous Huaud family of Geneva, who worked c. 1670-1724. Geneva remained famous for enamel work until the late 1800s.

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